Construyendo un submarino de juguete con piezas de Lego

Building a Lego-powered Submarine 2.0 - magnetic couplings

This RC sub has magnetic couplings to transmit torque through the walls. No need to drill holes = no leaks. At the end I test it in a swimming pool. Enjoy!

Differences to the first sub
-rectangular hull (need flat walls for magnetic couplings)
-snap-and-lock lid (more reliable, less leakage)
-bigger motors, more motors, more propellers
-depth control using propellers (IMO more accurate compared to a syringe ballast tank)
-lead pellets for ballast (easier to adjust, both shape and weight, compared to steel plates)
-captain (thanks everyone for pointing out this obvious missing part :))

The submarine specs:
Displacement: 2.7 kg (6.0 lb)
Test depth: 1.5 m (4.9 ft)
Hull: glass food container (IKEA 365+ 1.8l), plastic lid
Motors: 3x Lego XL-motor (8882-1)
Magnetic couplings: K&J Magnetics R844-N52 neodymium magnet, TapeCase 423-5 UHMW Tape
Propellers: Lego propeller blade (2952), Lego liftarms
Radio control: 27 MHz controller dissembled from a toy submarine (Zantec Mini RC U Boot), L298 H-bridge to drive motors
Power supply: 9V Lego battery box for the motors, 3.7V Li-Po for the RC
Onboard camera: Faironly Firefly Q6
Pressure sensor: Jolly Logic Altimeter One

Link to the magnets used in the couplings:

Tommy Baynen – Laminar Flow [Colorize]

Tommy Baynen - Laminar Flow
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Autor: Janmi

Janmi es un informático entusiasta de la ciencia ficción, el diseño gráfico, el universo de Tolkien, fantasía épica y otras cosas frikis. Apasionado por la tecnología, ya sea desde el punto de visto técnico, domótico, funcional o de diseño.